More with the Bread... Again
Well, I took the plunge over the weekend and dropped some hefty dollars to get me a copy of The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, by Peter Reinhart. It is, without a doubt, a fantastic book covering the art and science of bread making, providing excellent pictures, illustrations, and formulae for creating great breads of many different styles, from sandwich to artisnal, yeasted to sourdough.
Of course, with a resource like that at my fingertips, it would be silly of me not to make some bread (despite the fact that I made a pair of sandwich loaves over the weekend (25/65/10 white/WW/rye… yummy!)). So, in anticipation of making some lasagna tonight, I decided to try and execute the Italian bread recipe in the book. The results speak for themselves:
Pretty nice, if I do say so myself! Nice colour, decent oven spring (though not great… the bread formed a bit of a skin during proofing which may have limited spring), reasonable scoring (though not on a proper angle, so no “ears”), and the crumb is just what I was looking for: big, irregular holes, with a nice, soft interior. And flavour-wise it’s deliciously complex, without a hint of yeast. My only complaint is that it’s rather salty, though I think that’s a consequence of the recipe rather than botched execution (the formula has salt at 3.6% by weight… by contrast, French bread has just 1.9% salt).
Up next? Sourdough… eventually. The starter is percolating, and smells distinctly like yogurt, which would be the lactobacillus churning away and lowering the ph. Hopefully today or tomorrow it’ll start smelling more like yeast.
I'm Taking the Plunge
Yup… I said I didn’t have the attention span to maintain a sourdough starter, and, well, I probably don’t.
But I just gotta try it.
As such, I now have a plastic container in my oven, the door propped open with a towel and the light on, containing a 100% hydration blend of organic white and dark rye flours. Here’s hoping it comes to life…
Fun with Naan
If anyone’s had good quality Indian food, they’ve probably experienced Naan, a classic Indian leavened flatbread. Pair it with a good curry and there’s just nothing like it… and, unfortunately, it’s also incredibly difficult to replicate at home. Traditionally, Naan is baked in something called a Tandoor, a vertical, clay oven heated by charcoal which can reach upwards of 900F! To bake naan, the dough is flattened into a teardrop shape and then stuck to the inside wall of the oven, where it bakes for mere minutes before coming out piping hot.
Of course, no one is going to have a Tandoor at home, and so replicating Naan at home is basically impossible. However, you can get pretty close:
I got the recipe from a lovely woman named Manjula. I don’t actually know who she is, but she has a website, and apparently posts videos on youtube, including this Naan recipe. Now, obviously the key to good Naan is blazing hot temperatures, and it turns out the best way to achieve this at home is with a baking stone. If you don’t have one, get one. You’ll love it, trust me. For pizza, there’s nothing like it, and it can also be used for artisnal breads, and as it turns out, Naan, too.
As for the recipe, it’s pretty straightforward (BTW, if you want the volumetric measurements, just check out the video):
1 tsp active dry yeast 1 tsp sugar 170g warm water 300g flour 1 tsp salt pinch baking soda 2 tbsp oil 2 1/2 tbsp plain yogurt
The following directions are my method of putting the dough together, but really, there’s no bad way. Just make sure you activate the yeast before doing anything else. Anyway, here’s how I put it together:
- Combine the water, sugar, and yeast, whisk, and set aside to activate.
- Combine the dry incredients and whisk together to combine.
- Dump out the dry onto the counter and make a nice, big well.
- Put the yeast mixture, oil, and yogurt into the well and combine with a fork.
- Gradually incorporate flour with a fork until it comes together as a dough.
- Kneed for a minute or so, just a few strokes. Note, the dough will be pretty wet, making this process a bit… messy. Manjula suggests putting a little oil on your hands.
- Let the dough rise 3-4 hours. Note, I usually rise an hour, degass, then rise one more hour. I’m impatient.
To bake:
- Put the stone in the oven and turn it up to 500 degrees, letting it preheat for a good 30 minutes, then switch the oven to the high broiler. Note: never put a cold stone in a hot oven!
- Divide the dough into 4-6 pieces, rolling into balls and dusting with flour.
- Baking in batches, flatten the pieces to 1/4” thickness (feel free to roll, but I like to use my hands). Then for each piece, dampen your hands, toss the dough between them, and then place the piece on the stone. Optionally, prick with a fork, otherwise they tend to inflate. A lot.
- Bake for 2-3 minutes, until spotty brown.
- Once done, take them out and brush with melted butter or ghee (clarified butter).
Look like a lot of effort? Trust me, it’s not so bad. And man… it’s worth it.
Yes, More With The Bread
Well, I just keep refining this bread recipe. The second time, Lenore thought she could detect a strange aftertaste in the bread. It wasn’t clear if it was a lingering alcohol smell, or a by-product of stale whole wheat flour, and so I decided to run a couple experiments. Both turned out frickin’ fantastic, if I do say so myself.
Both of these breads were made using a white flour poolish made as follows:
- 10 tbsp white flour
- 10 tbsp water
- 1/4 tsp yeast.
Now, if you’ve read any of my other posts, you’ll know this mixture is a little different. First, there’s more flour. This is mainly because the white flour absorbs less liquid, and so the poolish can tolerate more. You’ll also note there’s less yeast. I was worried that the first poolish got a little alcohol-y, generating the off flavour Lenore noticed, and so I decreased the amount of yeast in the poolish, and conversely increased the yeast content in the main bread. Interestingly, this poolish formula generated much greater gluten development. As in, the blend went from batter-like when I mixed it, to an almost stretchy, rubbery texture. It was pretty remarkable, actually, and possibly a consequence of the decreased yeast (if flour ferments too long/much, the gluten can actually begin to break down, a phenomenon known as over-proofing).
As for technique, I dialed back the bake time to thirty minutes, and made use of a thermometer to test for doneness (they need to hit 200F at the center). In addition, as you can see, I scored the tops of the loaves prior to baking, partly because it helps jack up the oven spring by breaking tension in the top of the loaf, and partly because I think it just looks nice. :)
Other than that, these loaves are essentially the same as attempt number two. The loaf on the left is straight white bread, a test to see if the wheat flour was the cause of the flavour Lenore detected. The loaf on the right is probably 40% WW (I forgot to jack up the WW in the main recipe to compensate for the white flour poolish, but… so it goes).
As for impressions, as you can see, the crumb is pleasantly tighter and more even than my second loaf, a result, I suspect, of the higher gluten development thanks to the poolish. The bread is much more moist and soft, almost the texture of a store-bought french bread. In conclusion: hands down, my best attempts yet.
Oh, and the funky taste? No sign of it! Must’ve been the funky flour after all.