• More with the Bread... Again

    Well, I took the plunge over the weekend and dropped some hefty dollars to get me a copy of The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, by Peter Reinhart. It is, without a doubt, a fantastic book covering the art and science of bread making, providing excellent pictures, illustrations, and formulae for creating great breads of many different styles, from sandwich to artisnal, yeasted to sourdough.

    Of course, with a resource like that at my fingertips, it would be silly of me not to make some bread (despite the fact that I made a pair of sandwich loaves over the weekend (25/65/10 white/WW/rye… yummy!)). So, in anticipation of making some lasagna tonight, I decided to try and execute the Italian bread recipe in the book. The results speak for themselves:

    Italian Bread Loaves

    Italian Bread Sliced

    Pretty nice, if I do say so myself! Nice colour, decent oven spring (though not great… the bread formed a bit of a skin during proofing which may have limited spring), reasonable scoring (though not on a proper angle, so no “ears”), and the crumb is just what I was looking for: big, irregular holes, with a nice, soft interior. And flavour-wise it’s deliciously complex, without a hint of yeast. My only complaint is that it’s rather salty, though I think that’s a consequence of the recipe rather than botched execution (the formula has salt at 3.6% by weight… by contrast, French bread has just 1.9% salt).

    Up next? Sourdough… eventually. The starter is percolating, and smells distinctly like yogurt, which would be the lactobacillus churning away and lowering the ph. Hopefully today or tomorrow it’ll start smelling more like yeast.

  • Yes, More With The Bread

    Well, I just keep refining this bread recipe. The second time, Lenore thought she could detect a strange aftertaste in the bread. It wasn’t clear if it was a lingering alcohol smell, or a by-product of stale whole wheat flour, and so I decided to run a couple experiments. Both turned out frickin’ fantastic, if I do say so myself.

    Test Loave Test Loaves Cut

    Both of these breads were made using a white flour poolish made as follows:

    • 10 tbsp white flour
    • 10 tbsp water
    • 1/4 tsp yeast.

    Now, if you’ve read any of my other posts, you’ll know this mixture is a little different. First, there’s more flour. This is mainly because the white flour absorbs less liquid, and so the poolish can tolerate more. You’ll also note there’s less yeast. I was worried that the first poolish got a little alcohol-y, generating the off flavour Lenore noticed, and so I decreased the amount of yeast in the poolish, and conversely increased the yeast content in the main bread. Interestingly, this poolish formula generated much greater gluten development. As in, the blend went from batter-like when I mixed it, to an almost stretchy, rubbery texture. It was pretty remarkable, actually, and possibly a consequence of the decreased yeast (if flour ferments too long/much, the gluten can actually begin to break down, a phenomenon known as over-proofing).

    As for technique, I dialed back the bake time to thirty minutes, and made use of a thermometer to test for doneness (they need to hit 200F at the center). In addition, as you can see, I scored the tops of the loaves prior to baking, partly because it helps jack up the oven spring by breaking tension in the top of the loaf, and partly because I think it just looks nice. :)

    Other than that, these loaves are essentially the same as attempt number two. The loaf on the left is straight white bread, a test to see if the wheat flour was the cause of the flavour Lenore detected. The loaf on the right is probably 40% WW (I forgot to jack up the WW in the main recipe to compensate for the white flour poolish, but… so it goes).

    As for impressions, as you can see, the crumb is pleasantly tighter and more even than my second loaf, a result, I suspect, of the higher gluten development thanks to the poolish. The bread is much more moist and soft, almost the texture of a store-bought french bread. In conclusion: hands down, my best attempts yet.

    Oh, and the funky taste? No sign of it! Must’ve been the funky flour after all.